First we visited the so-called German Corner, where a giant statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I, the first emperor of the newly united Germany. Destroyed in World War II, it was rebuilt and now, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, it stands again as a monument to the united German nation.
The day's excursion was to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, a major 19th century project built to defend Prussia from the French. The fortress occupies a strategic location 500 feet above the confluence of the Mosel and the Rhine Rivers. After a gondola ride across the Rhine, we met our guide, dressed as a 19th century British engineer, portraying the role of an agent sent to snoop out the Prussian military engineering effort at Ehrenbreitstein for possible use by the English. As such he took us through the amazing project, pointing out the genius of the Prussians in constructing an almost impenetratable fort - gun placements, dry moats, thick walls, small portals, just to name a few. At the end the guide revealed that the fort, built at great expense, was never attacked, as the lines of warfare had moved to the East. Now the fortress is used as a youth hostel, a museum, a performance center and other community projects.
We rejoined the Viking Odin at lunch as the ship was about to enter the region of the castles on the Rhine. For almost four hours we watched with delight as the castles, all save one destroyed by the troops of Louis XIV, swept by. Most now remain either as ruins or rebuilt as hotels or private residences. The weather was warm enough so that we stayed on the sun deck for great views and opportunities for photos as the tour director supplied a running narrative of the passing scene.
The dinner we just finished was a German feast with wurst, sauerkraut, beer, and Black Forest tort, just to name the principals. Tonight we cruise into the morning on the Main Canal in order to reach tomorrow's destination, Heidelberg. More to come...
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