Yaroslavl - Day 8

The city of Yaroslavl on the Volga River was today's destination.  The city was founded in 1010 AD as a major trading center between East and West.  For a brief time it was the temporary center of Russian government in the so-called "time of troubles" -- when there was quarreling between competing dynasties.  It has numerous Orthodox churches and the Spassky monastery (now a museum), whose walls protected the government in exile.

Before arriving at Yaroslavl we heard another chapter of Russian history, "Gorbachev and Perestroika".  Our guide recounted the restructuring that took place under Gorbachev, much of which was needed but proved very unpopular.  Gorbachev is credited with ending the Cold War, but the economic programs he introduced caused havoc for the average Russian.  For that reason he is much more popular in the Western countries than he is in Russia.

Our tour of Yaroslavl included the Church of Elijah the Prophet, of which the icon wall inside and the frescoes throughout the interior were truly amazing.  We visited the main marketplace and the Alexander Nevsky chapel on the town green, and an art gallery where exquisite lacquer boxes -- one of the original Russian artistic expressions -- were on display (and for sale...).  The only sour note of the day was that our visit to the city's eternal flame and new basilica was cut short by a torrential downpour.

We got another glimpse of wry Russian humor from our local guide.  As we entered the city  she pointed out the statue of Lenin.  "We are not Communists" she said. "We just don't have enough money to take it down".

Our ship travels overnight to Uglich.  After a morning's outing there, it's on to Moscow.

Day 7 - Kirillov

This day began with more sunshine and warmer temperatures.  After breakfast we had another informational session on "Russian History - 1917-1985" -- from the abdication of Czar Nicholas II and the Bolshevik Revolution to the era of Mikial Gorbachev.  As has been the previous case, what we heard from our Russian guide was not quite what we had read or heard.  In some ways, it was worse: the brutality of Stalin and his reign of terror.  In some ways it was more human: hearing the Russian jokes told about the foibles of their leaders.

The shore excursion for the day was a visit to the Kirillov Belozersky Monastery, which at its heyday was the second largest Orthodox monastery in Russia.  Our tour included the grounds set on a beautiful lake, and a museum established during the Communist era to display the icons and other religious objects belonging to the monastery which had been closed by the authorities.  Some relics of the monastery included the personal effects of one of the Orthodox patriarchs who had been exiled to the monastery because of his liberalizing ways, for creating the schism in the church which resulted in the "Old Believers".

Upon our return we were treated to Russian tea and the origin and use of the samovar -- basically a portable stove for heating water for making the tea.  Afterwards we had a second session on the Russian language, learning valuable phrases such as "how much does it cost?"  Tonight we are setting on the outside deck after dinner, watching the countryside slowly pass by.  We are on our way toward another day and another adventure.

Kizhi - Day 6

The day started early with our arrival (after an overnight traverse of Lake Onega) at the island of Kizhi.  This settlement of peasants was known from at least the  15th century, and in the 18th century, two major churches were built, entirely of wood.  Even though villages such as this no longer exist, Kizhi has been developed as an UNESCO World Heritage site as an open air museum of rural Russian life.

We visited the island on a walking tour, the highlight of which is the oldest wooden church in Russia, the Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus with 22 domes.  The original structure was constructed without nails, using only wooden pegs to hold it together.  Not surprisingly, it is undergoing constant refurbishing.  Added to this outdoor museum are other wooden structures, moved there from other islands.  Such structures are houses with barns attached, windmills, and smaller chapels.

The Viking Ingvar left Kizhi late morning to sail back across Lake Onega.  The rest of the day included informational lectures on the Russian language and the Romanov dynasty, the autocratic family reign that ended with the abdication of Tsar Nicholas II and his subsequent death and that of his family members in Siberia.  We also had a tour of the ship's bridge and the captain's explanation of how the ship's navigation worked.  The day ended with the captain's reception for members of the Viking Explorer's Club -- those passengers who had been on previous Viking cruises.

Tomorrow we arrive in Kuzino the site of the Kirillov Belozersky Monastery, the second largest Othodox monastery in Russia.  More to come...

Mandrogi - Day 5

After sailing all night across Lake Ladoga, the largest lake in Europe, we entered the River Svir and continued northeastward for about 70 miles.  After breakfast we had the first of two informational lectures given by members of the resident guide staff.  The first was on the geography of the region through which we were traveling; the second was on "what to eat and what to take home" -- the Russian food delicacies and the folk crafts available.  We learned that the Russians are good at adopting; for example that, borscht -- the beet soup -- is really Ukranian in origin, and that the idea for the Martioshka dolls (the dolls with the successively smaller dolls inside) was borrowed from the Japanese.

Our destination was Mandrogi, a small village on the Svir River which was revived starting in 1996 to be a magnet for skilled workmen in the folk trades (as well as for tourists).  Houses and hotels were built in the old Russian medieval rustic style where the visitors can ride a pony cart around the village, wander through the crafts shops, and by appointment, go to a banya -- a Russian sauna -- for a steam room experience followed by a thrashing with linden branches and then a plunge in the river.  Needless to say, we did not visit the banya.

On our return, we set sail again.  This is my favorite part of the cruise -- to sit on the open deck or in one of the lounges to watch the landscape roll by.  It is relaxing and restoring.  And since the sun does not set until 11:00 p.m., there is lots of time to take it all in.

Tomorrow we visit the island of Kizhi, the home of the oldest wooden church in Russia.  It is reported that no nails were used in the construction of this building, that all the pieces are notched together.  we'll have a report tomorrow...

On the Neva River - Day 4

We have set sail for Moscow.  After the final day of soaking up the sights and sounds of St. Petersburg our ship, the Viking Ingvar, began the journey southward.  It is great to see again the landscape rolling by, taking in the rustic charm of the Russian country beside the river.

In the morning we had visited Peterhof, the summer palace of Peter the Great on the shore of the Bay of Finland.  This was another palace badly damaged and looted by the Germans during WWII which is being restored to its former glory.  And what a glory!  The interiors were gilded with golden ornamentation in greater excess than the palace of Catherine.  The floors were exquisite parquet designs, the chandeliers made with glass infused with gold to give it a lavender hue.

The grounds of the palace were designed with fountains and water features that earned the title of "Versailles of the North".  At precisely 11 a.m. the main fountains behind the palace in the lower garden were turned on to the strains of a patriotic anthem to the delight of all tourists.  The Peterhof represents aristocratic excess, but it is a delight to see.

In the afternoon we cruised through the heart of St. Petersburg on a canal boat while our guide pointed to sites of interest -- who lived where, who was the boyfriend of this monarch, who and where this person was assassinated.  It was interesting to learn the darker side of the city.

We returned to the ship in time for the 7:30 p.m. sailing.  We were hosted to a Captain's welcome party, introduced to the main crew members, and enjoyed the welcome dinner while watching the passing countryside.  The gentle motion of the ship will make for restful sleep.  And more adventures will come tomorrow.

St. Petersburg - Day 3

We've had another amazing day in and around St. Petersburg.  Our day began with a morning trip to Pushkin Village (now known as Tsarskoye Selo or Tsar's Village) to see the summer residence of Catherine I and her heirs.  It was a magnificent palace with gold leaf ornamenting everywhere, and one room with the walls clad in amber.

Destroyed by the German forces during WWII, it has been rebuilt and is gradually being restored to its former glory.  The palace is surrounded by a large formal garden complete with galleries and several pavilions where Catherine met guests and officials.  As yesterday, we had an express tour of the place, mingling not only with other tourists, but with Russian families on their Trinity Sunday outing.

After lunch, it was back on the bus for a tour of more of St. Petersburg, including the Sts Peter and Paul fortress -- the original Kremlin (citadel) of St. Petersburg, built by Peter the Great in 1707 as a defense against the Swedes.  Inside is the Trinity Cathedral in which Peter and his descendents have their tombs.  Other photo opportunities included the Church of the Saviour, built on the site where Alexander II was assassinated, and the Cathedral of Isaac built to house 15,000 worshipers.

Then after another great dinner, we got a taste of Cossack music and dancing provided by a semi-professional and enthusiastic band of performers.  This was a "touristy" event, but enjoyable nonetheless.

Tomorrow, our last day in St. Petersburg, we will see yet another palace and take a canal cruise of this city known as "the Venice of the North".  Then, in the evening we begin our cruise toward Moscow.  More to come...

St. Petersburg - Day 2

It's 11 p.m. in St. Petersburg and it's still daylight.  That gives you an idea of how far north we are.

It was a terrific, full day, dimmed only by the rain that was falling spordically.  After breakfast we headed to the State Hermitage Museum, a massive place housed in palaces built for the Tsars when the government was in St. Petersburg.  The collection of paintings and other objects is extensive: according to one observation, if you were to spend one minute looking at each item, you would need 11 years to see them all.  Needless to say, we were on an express viewing, following our guide through 5 buildings, seeing the highlights.

When we had an hour of free time, Jan and I went to the Impressionists section:  there are literally rooms of Picasos, Van Goghs, Manets, among others.  What a feast!

This afternoon we were entertained aboard ship by an Argentine-born tenor and his Russian wife who accompanied him on the piano.  They treated us to some well-known (to them) Russian songs, the translations suggesting the beauty of Russian landscape and the passionate nature of Russian love.

After another delicious dinner, it was back to the Hermitage area where we took in a full production of the "Swan Lake" ballet in the personal theatre of Catherine the Great.  It was a good performance, definitely a cultural exposure, with a 30 member live orchestra.

We are definitely getting a good feel for Russian culture and heritage.  Tomorrow it's more sight-seeing, starting  with the Tsar's Village in the town of Pushkin.

More to come...